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a day in the life of... Darren Stevenson.

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Darren Stevenson

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Name:
Darren Stevenson
Nickname:
"used to be good"
Weight:
78kg
Height:
180cm
Ape index:
Minus 3 inches
Team/Sponsorship:
Team Scarpa
Occupation:
Rope Access Inspection Leader

Darren Stevenson in a nutshell:

"I've been climbing for 17 years or so. Originally from Glasgow but I have not lived there for over 10 years. Now based in Newcastle and arrived here via Sheffield. Work as a Rope Access Technician, RAT for short. Spend my working time in the middle of the North Sea supervising inspection works utilising rope access techniques for access to the work site. Been doing rope access for 8 years now. Previously I worked for 'Outside' in Hathersage. I have climbed worldwide including most of Western Europe, Thailand and the USA. Climbing highlights include 6th ascent of Brad Pit, 3rd ascent of Blazin 48's and 3rd ascent of Walk on By ( which all happened in a short period in 1999), Onsighted up to E6 on grit but happier at lower E grades as it is more fun. Also enjoy a bit of photography and in the past I have been lucky to have a couple of front covers on the now defunct 'On The Edge'. My photography can now mainly be found adorning the Scarpa website. At the moment we are busy trying to launch a new business in the North East, still in the early stages but ClimbNewcastle will be a very exciting venture for all involved."

Darren Stevenson

Likes/Dislikes:

"Good Karma, French patisseries. Dislike people who lie."

Climbing Preferences:

"Bouldering and grit routes. Tried every type of climbing but always go back to grit."

Questions:

Who/What got you into climbing and when?
"Some friends at college started climbing at the Kelvinhall during 1991 and I got dragged along. I quickly gave up my other sports to concentrate on climbing. I was at that time competing at high level in Athletics and Rugby."

What's your favorite and/or hardest climb/boulder problem to date?
"It would have to be West Side Story at Burbage West for my favorite problem - it is a fantastic problem. I think my hardest problem to date would be Blazin' 48's which is also at Burbage West or maybe Sale Gosse sit down proper in Font."

Does anything give you continual inspiration to climb?
"Climbing in new places and meeting new and interesting people. The world is a big place."

If you could give only one piece of advice to another climber, what would that be?
"Have fun and give every day climbing your best. Don't be lazy."

Darren Stevenson

Where have you been climbing/bouldering lately?
What have you achieved/enjoyed? "Recently spent a lot of time indoors due to my 'ability' to schedule my climbing days with bad weather days. Enjoying climbing with Andy and Suzan as they both motivate me to try my best. Recent achievements include doing the terrace (font7c) at Burbage North (not my style) and flashing Giza (font 7b+) which was enjoyable but will get downgraded now that I have flashed it, ha ha."

Do you have a favorite climber or climber you most admire?
"My housemate at the moment. Andy (Earle) is someone who I admire as he seems to pack into a day what I do in a week."

How do you deal with long periods away from the crag mentally and physically?
"I just go and do something else. I don't think it is healthy to be climbing - climbing - climbing all the time. I work for a two week period offshore with no opportunity to climb so I go to the gym, play the Wii or just surf the net - oh and I do a bit of work."

Do you hold one book as the definitive climbing bible?
"No. I like to read as many different views as possible."

Do you have any superstitions that you feel might effect your climbing?
"Superstitions get in the way of performing, so no."

Darren Stevenson

Where is your favorite climbing/bouldering location in the UK?
"Kyloe in the Woods is a special place for me. I don't climb at my best there but the situation is magical."

and international location?
"Fontainebleau without a doubt. It's the best place in the world for bouldering."

In your opinion who's the most promising youngster on the competition circuit and/or outdoors at the moment?
"I've been very impressed by Zoe Ogden who is in Team Scarpa. She has not been climbing long but her enthusiasm makes her a promising prospect as she is no way near her full potential."

If you're planning a big day out on a crag what 3 things other than climbing essentials do you take with you?
"Diet coke, mobile and camera kit."

Who would you most like to be stuck on a crag with?
"Hopefully a mountain rescue expert so they could get me unstuck, failing that my girlfriend to keep me warm and entertained!"

What's your favorite climber's story/myth/legend?
"My mate Hugo Glovers' story about getting stuck on the Bonatti Pillar during a massive storm, ha ha."

What's your biggest pet hate in the climbing world?
"Peoples ever increasing obsession with numbers rather than the actual climb, route or boulder problem."

Do you train particularly hard to climb at your level or are you blessed with natural ability?
"I have trained more in the last year than I have ever have which is still less than your average climber. Prefer to be outside in the 'great' British sunshine."

Is there one climber whose technical ability stands out for you?
"Marc le Menestral. I had the good fortune to spend some time with him many years ago and he is technically superb. In the UK my vote would go to Sean Myles."

When do you think you'll call it a day and hang up your boots?
"Never. I've tried to do it - but I keep coming back."

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