If you are unsure on how to recognise different types of holds please refer to the following list of terms and holds below.
Bucket - The American term for the commonly known jug handhold. See 'Jug'.
Chickenhead/Chickhead - A physical feature that protrudes out of the rockface resembling a chickens head. Also referred to as a 'Horn.'
Chimney - A very wide crack usually vertical, representing the inside of a chimney stack. Normally the climber can get inside the crack and climb within it.
Crimper - A small delicate hold that requires a skilful and strong grip, named because it requires the fingers to crimp the hold and sometimes load the thumb over the top of the fingers for added strength.
Crozley - A slimy, putrid hold that sucks at the soul.
Finger Hold - A smaller hold that will only accommodate at maximum three fingers but normally holds one ot two fingers. Requires great strength in the hands and forearms. Fingerboards and campus boards are vital training tools to improve finger and hand stamina.
Fingerlock - Nasty hold technique that requires a climber to twist a finger or fingers into a crack and jam them to execute the hold. Not for the faint hearted or those of a low pain threshold.
Fist Jam - A hand jam that requires the fist being crammed into gap or crack and then to take the bodies weight
Foot Jam - A hold whereby the foot is jammed/kicked into a crack to gain purchase.
Gaston - A hold that requires herculean strength to execute. Requires the hands to be pulling at the hold in opposing directions to keep you stable.
Gerry Rail - A hold that is big enough and obvious enough to use that the most scenior climber couldn't possible miss or not used. Sometimes called a Stannah (as in the stairlift company).
Hand Jam - Basically the same hold as a fist jam. Rather than making a fist sometimes the jam is used with an open hand or contorting the hand in the jam to fit. Not the most pleaseant of holds but can be very strong and can leave some amazing scuffing on the hand to show off to fellow climbers in the pub after the climb.
Horn - A large rock protrusion resembling a horn which is very easy to hold and hang from.
Jug - A massive relief to a tired climber! A large deep hold that can be gripped with ease. Examples are ceiling or roof jugs in bouldering caves etc where a climber can hang from them easily. Americans refer to this hold as a 'Bucket'.
Lock - A very secure hold, usually a crack in which you can slot your hand, foot, or leg.
Mono - Small pocket that only has space for one finger.
Nubbins - Very small protrusions from the rock face that give enough grip for a foot hold but are difficult or not suitable for a hand hold.
Off width - A large crack in the rock face that is too wide to give a decent hand or foot hold and too narrow to get the whole body into.
Pocket - A hold formed by a small pocket sized depression in the rock, suitable to take several fingers.
Rolling Pin - Long rail of rock or a lip in the rock that resembles a rolling pin in looks. Easy large hand hold.
Side Pull - A hand hold that needs to be held with horizontal (sideways) pressure toward the climber.
Sloper - A horrible flat featureless hold that is usually sloping away from the rock face in a downward angle that requires smearing the whole open hand palm down to grip. Good luck.
Smear - A small friction hold, usually a foothold where by the sole of the climbing shoe is pressed against the face of the rock.
Toe Jam - Indentation in the rock big enough to cram the toe end of your climbing shoe in.
Undercling - An elusive hold which requires grasping a rock, crack, or surface which is hidden underneath a protrusion.
