Select a Climbing Rope
As with selecting the correct harness for your style of climbing, it is also important to select the right kind of rope to use. Ropes are manufactured in different thicknesses and finishes to get the best out of them and out of your climbing. There is often a lot of questioning about ropes suitability and the pitches it should be used on:
- should I use Dynamic or Static ropes?
- which rope should I buy wet or dry etc?
- how is rope tested?
- when the rope should be replaced?
- how do I care for my rope?
From the earliest days of climbing the primary piece of equipment required to halt a falling climber has been the rope. In the early days rope was manufactured from natural fibres as used in shipping etc. These natural fibres were hemp or manila and were twisted and ‘hawser laid’ (Figure 1) on machinery that basically bound several strands of thinner cord together to make a rope. This rope had limitations for climbers as it was not waterproof and became incredibly heavy when wet. Wet rope loses its strength and if abrades easily then in contact with a sharp edge such as a rock ledge. It could also untwist and had no shock resistance. This meant that a falling climber could easily snap the rope as a ‘hawser laid’ rope using natural fibres experiencing a sudden load would fail far easier than modern ropes.
The next step taken around the early 1940’s was the introduction of nylon by the manufacturers DuPont. This was the synthetic replacement of natural fibres and added greater versatility and shock loading of falls. It still had it’s limitations in the fact that is construction was still twisted cords to create a rope and little protection of the ropes surface against rock abrasion. In 1951 a process called Kernmantel construction gave way to the modern climbing rope era. Kernmantel construction consists of a nylon sheath (mantel) is tightly braided around the Nylon or Dyneema core (kern) of the rope. The core represents about 75% of a rope's strength. The outer sheath is the rope's armour, designed to protect the core, it provides around 25% of the strength. This outer sheath can have finishes and applications that make it water resistant.
Figure 1
Hawser Laid |
Figure 2
Kernmantel Construction |
Dynamic or Static
Basically the difference between the two types of rope are that Dynamic has the ability to stretch when taking a load, i.e. a falling climber and this stretching reduces the shock on the rope which makes it more suitable for most climbing. Static rope doesn’t have any stretch and is more suited for hauling gear up a rock face, abseiling or aid climbing but can be used for top roping, for instance in an Indoor climbing wall where the fall distance is minimal and a strong rope with minimal wear is required. Taking a long fall on a static rope could severely damage your spine. Static ropes should NEVER be used by lead climbers.
Strength of the Rope
Climbing ropes strength is measured by two factors: 1. Static Elongation
2. Maximum Impact Force.
The elongation measures the amount a rope stretches when weighted with a
standard load (80 kilograms/176 pounds the rough average weight of a male
climber). Ropes with low static elongation stretch less. Higher static elongation
means ropes have more stretch and therefore cushion the impact of the fall.
Maximum impact force refers to the amount of force transmitted to a climber
during a fall. Hence a rope with a Low Maximum Impact force means the rope
(not the climber or the protection) absorbs more of the energy generated
in a fall. Ropes with a High Maximum Impact force do not absorb the energy
but transfer the energy to either end of the rope (protection end and climbers
end) putting more stress on the rope which can result with a catastrophic
failing of the rope – a snapped rope and a falling climber.
Testing the Strength
The International Union of Alpine Associates (UIAA) tests and certifies dynamic ropes using standardized tests. CE certified ropes use virtually the same testing standards.
Falls:
Single ropes are tested by dropping an 80kg mass attached to a measured section of rope repeatedly until it snaps. The rating indicates the number of falls the rope withstood. Ropes that cannot withstand at least five falls are not approved. Half-ropes are tested with a 55kg mass. The fall rating indicates the number of falls withstood by a single rope strand. Twin ropes are tested with 80kg dropped on two strands.
Elongation:
Tests measure the dynamic elongation (stretch), of a rope under a dynamic load. Currently, the maximum allowable stretch on the first drop of the test, using a single rope is 40% with an 80kg load. Information about the elastic property of a rope is important in its relation to impact forces. A rope with greater dynamic elongation will have lower impact forces. But, keep in mind that a rope with lots of stretch can be difficult, if not potentially dangerous to use on a top-roped climb as if you fall low on the climb you may hit a ledge or the ground whilst the rope is stretching.
Dry or Non-Dry?
’Dry’ is a term given to a rope that has had a waterproof finish applied to he mantel. Dry ropes have been impregnated with a fluoropolymer-based solution to make them as water-resistant as possible. Absorbed water increases the weight of the rope and reduces its strength considerably. Use of dry ropes is essential for alpine and ice climbers, or for glacier travel. ‘Non-Dry’ has not had any waterproofing coating or finish. Simple as that! Non-dry ropes will suffice in other conditions, although a dry treatment is also useful for reducing wear from abrasion on rock faces.
Depending on your style of climbing and when and where you climb is a factor to consider in the choice of rope. If you purely climb indoors or are only ever a fair weather climber with no risk of the rope getting wet, then dry rope is a consideration. The main reason is that it is cheaper to buy and therefore cheaper to replace if you are using the rope often. Dry ropes are ideal for outdoor climbing. However it is important to understand that even though manufacturers make every effort to waterproof their ropes, during use of the rope the waterproof coating can wear off. Therefore it is important to retreat the rope periodically with a waterproofing ‘wash in’ fluid.
Ropes behave in different way when wet. They can become very heavy when wet and awkward to both handle and carry. Wet ropes also lose their ability to absorb energy during falls. In cold alpine conditions, wet ropes can freeze which again greatly reduces their energy absorption. The general rule of thumb is if you are unsure what kind of climbing you will be doing in the future or if you feel you will want a rope that is versatile in both outdoor and indoor climbing, spend a few pounds more on a Dry rope.
Length of rope
The standard rope length adopted by most climbers is 60 Metres. There are deviations on this with some ropes being 70 Metres etc. This allows a longer climb and abseil on one rope without joining ropes etc but the downside is that it is a heavier weight to carry and a longer rope to manage and coil up back into your haul bag.
Diameter of rope
Diameter of rope ranges from 7.5 mm to 11 mm. The general rule is a thicker diameter means a stronger and more durable rope which will take more and heavier falls but it is also physically heavier to carry and use. You will be safer on a thicker diameter, particularly if you are using one rope. Ropes with a diameter lower than 9 mm should not be used singularly. They should be used in pairs.
Diameter in Detail
Single:
Ropes with a diameter ranging from 9 mm to 11 mm are generally thick enough to be used singularly for most styles of climbing and 11 mm ropes are used in Indoor Climbing Walls because of their durability and ability to withstand heavy use and multiple falls. Their large diameter makes them more durable in outdoor situations as they can withstand more abrasion than thinner diameter ropes and are able to withstand more test falls and good for top roping. Generally recommended as an ideal rope for your first time buy and use. Ropes 10 mm and under are preferred by alpine climbers as they are lighter to carry on long pitches. However there is always a trade off and lighter, thinner diameter ropes are rated to withstand fewer successive test falls.
Half/Double:
Found in diameters from 8 to 9mm, half ropes are often called double ropes in the UK. Due to the thinner diameter these ropes are always used in pairs. Because two ropes are being used, this gives the climber added security as the ropes can be clipped into alternate pieces of protection during an ascent (i.e. one rope goes through protection on the left and one rope goes through protection on the right) which would minimise impact force during a fall on a tough route as two ropes are now offering absorption of shock. Two ropes are less likely to be severed or damaged by falling rock and if clipped in alternatively there is less likelihood of abrasion to both ropes. Basically double roping ups the stakes of the climber being safe if a fall happens. It is common practice when double roping to use two ropes of different colour so it is easy to identify quickly which rope is which. Although double ropes are thinner in diameter than an 11 mm durable rope, there would be two to carry and hence a heavier load. However this load can be split between climbing partners or just given to the belay monkey along with all your other gear whilst you stride out and enjoy the view and approach. A belay method which enables the independent control of each rope must be used.
Twin:
Twin ropes are designed for alpine routes. The essential feature is that their thin diameter (7.5-8mm) makes them almost as light as a single line, but offers full rope length rappels and high safety margins. The twin rope system uses two identical ropes, but unlike half ropes they are both clipped into the same piece of protection. They require stellar management and organization to prevent twisting and tangling, and record much higher impact forces than single or half ropes. Only recommended for advanced climbers and Alpine masters.
Replacing/retiring rope
The condition and life expectancy of a climbing rope depends on:
- amount of use
- number of falls
- climbing technique
- type of rock
- handling/storage
There are factors considering the lifespan of a climbing rope. Manufacturers have recommendations but there are other thoughts to consider such as abrasion of rock, ice, ice tools, the use of the rope in top roping, climbing conditions (wet/dirt) etc.
A manufacturer's general recommendations are as follows in terms of when to stop using and retire your rope from climbing:
| Retire the rope | if used 5-7 years for a couple of pitches every few months. |
| Retire the rope | if used 2 years for normal weekend use. |
| Retire the rope | if used 3 months of near daily use. |
| Retire the rope | if used up to 1 year of part-time use including multiple falls. |
| Retire the rope | if it has been damaged by rock fall, crampons, or sharp rock edges. If you are certain the damage is limited to an end, you can shorten your rope by cutting off the damaged piece. |
| Retire your rope immediately | if it suffers a fall that approaches factor 2 (a fall that is twice the distance as the amount of rope run out from the belay). |
Cleaning, care and storage
Ropes are another part of protection that will save your life when gravity
decides to ruin your day. Look after it and on most occasions it will look
after you. Modern ropes although strong in their main purpose of taking
the energy out of a fall and to stop you cratering are supple Nylon stands
that can be damaged by a lack of care.
Cleaning: If your rope gets dirty by trailing in mud or worse if a mixture
of rock dust and water contaminate your rope (the effects can set like cement
and make the rope stiff) it is best to hand wash the rope in cool water
with a mild chemical-free soap. If you can, wash the rope in the bath. NEVER
put your rope in the washing machine. If you need to use soap it is vital
you rinse the rope well afterwards to remove any residue. As mentioned earlier,
wet ropes loose their elasticity and strength, so it is vital the rope is
dried thoroughly before being packed away. Lay the wet rope out over a washing
line or on grass to dry in the air. Do not dry on a dusty or gritty surface
such as concrete as tiny particles of abrasive dust can be drawn into the
centre of the rope causing abrasion. Do not dry in direct sunlight as Ultra
Violet rays can degrade the mantel (outer cover) of the rope. Do not dry
in a tumble dryer or dry over a radiator as the intense heat can damage
the rope. If you climb sea-cliffs, it is vital you get the salt out of your
rope, which could take several washes. There are some very good rope cleaning
solutions available on the market and rope brushes for the gentle cleaning
of dirty rope.
Remember when cleaning:
| Do | Don't |
| Hand wash in cool water | Machine Wash |
| Use a mild chemical free soap | Use washing powder or bleaches |
| Rinse thoroughly | Pack away whilst wet |
| Dry thoroughly in the air | Dry in a tumble dryer or over a radiator |
Care:
A few basic precautions will improve the life of your rope. When not using all your rope on a climb, keep excess or spare ropes in a rope bag/rucksack to prevent the rope becoming contaminated with grit or tiny particles that can cause abrasion. Keep your rope loose coiled and away from trampling. Standing on your rope can grind grit into the inner of the rope causing internal abrasion. Inspect the rope after every climbing session and examine it for abrasion damage or nicks and cuts caused by falling rocks, sharp edges, crampons, ice tools or shock and splitting to the mantle after a severe fall.
Storage:
Store your rope in a dry place at room temperature and preferably in a rope haul bag or rucksack and looped loosely. Do not store with twists or tight knots in the rope. Keep it away from dirt, chemicals, acids and alkali compounds, and sunlight – these degrade nylon. Do not store near radiators or excess heat.
