Tie an Eight on the Bight Knot
Clipping in knots: - these knots are used for clipping into Karabiners etc when the end of the rope isn’t available.
Figure of Eight on a Bight:
This knot is often used in the middle of the rope, when an end is not available for creating a loop in the rope which can be clipped in to protection. It can also be made at the end of a rope for speed but it is advisable that a stopper not is put into the tail of the rope to prevent the tail slipping through the knot when load is applied which may move the rope. You should be aware that this knot can unroll under relatively low forces if loaded sideways from both directions ie perpendicular to the loop direction, particularly if nothing has been clipped into the loop. In that situation, an alpine butterfly may be a better choice.
Step One:
Figure 1: Make ‘bight’ (loop) in the rope.
Figure 2: Pass the loop over itself.
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Figure 1 |
Figure 2 |
Step Two:
Figure 3: Under the first loop and then through the loop.
Figure 4: Pull the loop through and tight and as with a
rethreaded Figure of Eight knot, count the double strands of rope in the
knot “two, two and two”
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Figure 3 |
Figure 4 |
Step Three:
Figure 5: The loop can be clipped into protection.
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Figure 5 |
NB: You should be aware that this knot can unroll under relatively low forces if loaded sideways from both directions i.e. perpendicular to the loop direction, particularly if nothing has been clipped into the loop and the knot is not experiencing a load force on the loop. In that situation, an alpine butterfly is a better choice of knot.
